Zingerman's

My father-in-law is a big eater. But I think even he was cowed by the 4 1/2 pound loaf of bread I sent to him from Zingerman's. The folks there claim bigger bread is better, and their bread is pretty hearty, with a thick, strong crust that stands up well to freezing. I just imagine it's so much fun to get this big, beautiful wheel of bread in the mail.

It'd be even better with one of Zingerman's olive oils. They break their selection down into light and elegant, buttery and smooth, assertive but smooth, and, my favorite, rustic and fruity. I liked the San Vito I bought; it made great mashed potatoes for Thanksgiving: Just cover six big, peeled russets that have been cut in thirds in cold water and cook for 40 minutes, then save 1 1/2 cups of the cooking water and drain the rest. Put potatoes back in hot pot to get rid of excess moisture, then mash, adding 6 tablespoons of flavorful olive oil, salt, pepper and as much of the cooking water as you need to get the right texture.

A sweet alternative to their olive oils would be a loaf of their bread with one of their varietal honeys. The most interesting ones were sold out when I placed my order, but maybe they'll get some of them back in stock in time. Meanwhile I bought some tupelo honey but haven't sampled it yet.

I've been in love with Zingerman's since Todd bought me an Italian-food gift box from them a couple years back, but in planning to write gift suggestions from the site I've realized my experience with them has been hit or miss. I loved the pasta, Zingerman's balsamic vinegar, vodka sauce, bread and olive oil I received, but he also ordered me a package of drinking chocolate that contained cornstarch and ended up the consistency of pudding and a subscription to the newsletter, which I only received once (I'm sure they'd rectify the error if I contacted them; once they sent the wrong type of vinegar and promptly sent out the right one, letting me keep their mistake). The stollen was tempting but ultimately $30 seemed like too much to pay. The chocolate-stuffed figs weren't figgy enough, the big tin of oatmeal was more like Cream of Wheat, without that heartier, fuller texture I wanted. So choose with caution.

Or leave the choosing to the folks at Zingerman's. One of my fantasy gifts (fantasy because prices go up to $600 for four shipments) is a subscription to the Z Club. They send a big box of rare, seasonal or exclusive food with lots of information about its origins and how to use it. Decadent.